What is a hair developer, and why does it matter?
Hair developer activates your chosen hair dye and helps it penetrate the hair shaft, creating colour that lasts. Without it, colour alone will produce only a faint result that washes out quickly, or no change at all. The developer is not bleach. It’s the activating agent that makes both bleach and permanent hair colour work. Bleach is the lightening powder itself; developer is what you mix it with to create the chemical reaction.
This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing the right hair dye developer, from understanding volume levels to matching the correct developer to specific colour brands and answers the question of What developer should I use?
What volume developer to use: understanding the levels
The biggest difference between developer types comes down to strength and what additives are included. Developers are formulated to complement specific colour products, so using a mismatched combination can significantly affect the result.
- 10 vol developer is ideal for darkening or toning the hair with minimal lift. It’s the go-to choice for refreshing existing colour and works well as a 10-volume developer on dark hair when you want to deposit tone without shifting the base level.
- 20 vol developer is the most commonly used strength. It’s the standard for grey coverage and provides 1-2 levels of lift. If you’re deciding between a 20- or 30-volume developer for standard colour work, 20 vol is the safer starting point for most applications. The standard ratio for mixing 20 volume developer with hair colour is 1:1, though always check the manufacturer’s instructions. A 20-volume developer on dark hair will give you a subtle shift, not a dramatic change.
- 30 vol developer delivers 3 levels of lift and suits clients looking for a more noticeable lightening result. If you’re weighing up whether to use 20 or 30 developer with bleach, 30 vol is the better choice for hair that needs more than a couple of levels of lift. Worth saying: 30 vol gets blamed for damage more than any other developer, but the real issue is usually leaving it on too long, not the volume itself.
- 40 vol developer is the strongest standard option, suited to high lift applications and significant lightening. A 40-volume developer on dark hair can achieve dramatic results, but it should be used with care and only when the hair’s condition supports it. Most professionals reach for 40 vol far less often than clients expect.
Hair color developer chart
Volume – Lift – Best For – Typical Mixing Ratio
- 10 vol (3%) – No lift to half a level – Toning, depositing colour, refreshing – 1:1 with permanent colour
- 20 vol (6%) – 1 to 2 levels – Grey coverage, subtle lightening, standard colour – 1:1 with permanent colour, 1:2 with bleach
- 30 vol (9%) – 2 to 3 levels – Noticeable lightening, off-scalp bleach – 1:1 with permanent colour, 1:2 with bleach
- 40 vol (12%) – 3 to 4 levels – High lift colour, significant lightening on dark hair – As directed by the manufacturer
What volume developer to use with bleach
When bleaching, the developer volume you choose controls how much lift you get. A 20:1 developer-to-bleach ratio (one part bleach to two parts developer) is standard for most on-scalp applications. For off-scalp work where you need more power, 30 vol at the same 1:2 bleach-to-developer ratio is more effective.
The ratio of bleach to developer matters just as much as the volume you pick. Too little developer and the mix dries out before it finishes processing. Too much and you dilute the bleach so it can’t do its job. Stick to the ratio on the packet unless you have a specific reason to adjust.
Developer for dark hair: what to know before you start
Dark hair requires more careful selection of developer strength. For clients wanting to lighten dark hair, 20 vol is the minimum you’d typically use, but for meaningful lift, you’re more likely reaching for 30 or 40 vol. When it comes to which developer to use with bleach for dark hair, 20 vol is suitable for subtle lightening or scalp applications, while 30 vol is more effective for off-scalp bleaching.
Hair dye for dark hair doesn’t always require a high-volume developer. If you’re depositing a rich brunette or going darker, 10 or 20 vol will do the job without unnecessary stress on the hair. The volume should match the goal, not the starting level.
For toning dark hair rather than lightening it, a 10-volume developer is often sufficient. If you’re choosing between a 10- or 20-volume developer for toner, go with 10 vol unless you need the toner to open the cuticle slightly for better deposit. Most toners are designed for 10 vol and perform best at that strength.
Hi Lift Colour and Developer
Hi Lift Bleach and Hi Lift Colour Formulas are designed for maximum lift in a single process. These typically require 40 vol developer and a specific mixing ratio as directed by the brand. Hi lift is best suited to natural hair that hasn’t been previously coloured, as pre-lightened or chemically treated hair may not respond predictably.
What is a hair developer, and why does it matter?
Hair developer activates your chosen hair dye and helps it penetrate the hair shaft, creating colour that lasts. Without it, colour alone will produce only a faint result that washes out quickly, or no change at all. The developer is not bleach. It’s the activating agent that makes both bleach and permanent hair colour work. Bleach is the lightening powder itself; developer is what you mix it with to create the chemical reaction.
This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing the right hair dye developer, from understanding volume levels to matching the correct developer to specific colour brands.
What volume developer to use: understanding the levels
The biggest difference between developer types comes down to strength and what additives are included. Developers are formulated to complement specific colour products, so using a mismatched combination can significantly affect the result.
- 10 vol developer is ideal for darkening or toning the hair with minimal lift. It’s the go-to choice for refreshing existing colour and works well as a 10-volume developer on dark hair when you want to deposit tone without shifting the base level.
- 20 vol developer is the most commonly used strength. It’s the standard for grey coverage and provides 1-2 levels of lift. If you’re deciding between a 20- or 30-volume developer for standard colour work, 20 vol is the safer starting point for most applications. The standard ratio for mixing 20 volume developer with hair colour is 1:1, though always check the manufacturer’s instructions. A 20-volume developer on dark hair will give you a subtle shift, not a dramatic change.
- 30 vol developer delivers 3 levels of lift and suits clients looking for a more noticeable lightening result. If you’re weighing up whether to use 20 or 30 developer with bleach, 30 vol is the better choice for hair that needs more than a couple of levels of lift. Worth saying: 30 vol gets blamed for damage more than any other developer, but the real issue is usually leaving it on too long, not the volume itself.
- 40 vol developer is the strongest standard option, suited to high lift applications and significant lightening. A 40-volume developer on dark hair can achieve dramatic results, but it should be used with care and only when the hair’s condition supports it. Most professionals reach for 40 vol far less often than clients expect.
Hair color developer chart
Volume – Lift – Best For – Typical Mixing Ratio
- 10 vol (3%) – No lift to half a level – Toning, depositing colour, refreshing – 1:1 with permanent colour
- 20 vol (6%) – 1 to 2 levels – Grey coverage, subtle lightening, standard colour – 1:1 with permanent colour, 1:2 with bleach
- 30 vol (9%) – 2 to 3 levels – Noticeable lightening, off-scalp bleach – 1:1 with permanent colour, 1:2 with bleach
- 40 vol (12%) – 3 to 4 levels – High lift colour, significant lightening on dark hair – As directed by the manufacturer
What volume developer to use with bleach
When bleaching, the developer volume you choose controls how much lift you get. A 20:1 developer-to-bleach ratio (one part bleach to two parts developer) is standard for most on-scalp applications. For off-scalp work where you need more power, 30 vol at the same 1:2 bleach-to-developer ratio is more effective.
The ratio of bleach to developer matters just as much as the volume you pick. Too little developer and the mix dries out before it finishes processing. Too much and you dilute the bleach so it can’t do its job. Stick to the ratio on the packet unless you have a specific reason to adjust.
Developer for dark hair: what to know before you start
Dark hair requires more careful selection of developer strength. For clients wanting to lighten dark hair, 20 vol is the minimum you’d typically use, but for meaningful lift, you’re more likely reaching for 30 or 40 vol. When it comes to which developer to use with bleach for dark hair, 20 vol is suitable for subtle lightening or scalp applications, while 30 vol is more effective for off-scalp bleaching.
Hair dye for dark hair doesn’t always require a high-volume developer. If you’re depositing a rich brunette or going darker, 10 or 20 vol will do the job without unnecessary stress on the hair. The volume should match the goal, not the starting level.
For toning dark hair rather than lightening it, a 10-volume developer is often sufficient. If you’re choosing between a 10- or 20-volume developer for toner, go with 10 vol unless you need the toner to open the cuticle slightly for better deposit. Most toners are designed for 10 vol and perform best at that strength.
Hi Lift Colour and Developer
Hi Lift Bleach and Hi Lift Colour Formulas are designed for maximum lift in a single process. These typically require 40 vol developer and a specific mixing ratio as directed by the brand. Hi lift is best suited to natural hair that hasn’t been previously coloured, as pre-lightened or chemically treated hair may not respond predictably.
Colour and developer pairing guide
To get the best result, use the developer that corresponds to your chosen colour brand. Here’s a breakdown of the developer recommendations for the brands we stock. Always follow the manufacturer’s mixing ratios, regardless of volume level.
Which developer should you use with Color Touch?
For Color Touch dye, we recommend the Color Touch Developer 1.9% Emulsion 1000ml or the Color Touch Developer 4% Intensive Emulsion 1000ml.
What developer should you use with Koleston Perfect Me+?
The Koleston Perfect Me+ Developer range is available in five levels to suit different goals:
What developer should you use with Vero K-PAK?
To activate Vero K-PAK colours effectively, use the matching Vero K-PAK developer range:
- VeroGlaze No Lift 950ml for toning without lift
- Veroxide 10 Vol (3%)
- Veroxide 20 Vol (6%)
- Veroxide 30 Vol (9%)
- Veroxide 40 Vol (12%)
Crema colour developers
Crema Colour developers come in four options: 10 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, 20 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, 30 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, and Oxy A Semi Developer 65ml. Pick the volume that matches your target result and follow the standard mixing ratio on the box.
Joico Lumishine liquid demi developer
For the Joico Lumishine Liquid Demi, there is one developer specifically designed for this formula: the Joico Lumishine 5 Vol (1.5%) Creme Developer, 946ml. Higher volumes would overpower this demi-permanent formula, compromising the result.
Igora Royal Developer and Mixing Ratio
The Igora Royal developer range is formulated to work alongside Igora Royal colour products. Follow the Igora Royal mixing ratio as specified in the product instructions to ensure consistent, predictable results. If you’re unsure which level to pair with a specific shade, our customer service team can help.
Choosing the Right Developer
Getting the developer right is half the job. Use the chart above as a starting point, match your volume to what you’re actually trying to achieve, and stick to the developer range designed for your colour brand. If you’re ever unsure which developer to use for hair dye or for permanent hair colour, reach out to our customer service team. We deal with these questions every day, and we’d rather you ask than guess.
Colour and developer pairing guide
To get the best result, use the developer that corresponds to your chosen colour brand. Here’s a breakdown of the developer recommendations for the brands we stock. Always follow the manufacturer’s mixing ratios, regardless of volume level.
Which developer should you use with Color Touch?
For Color Touch dye, we recommend the Color Touch Developer 1.9% Emulsion 1000ml or the Color Touch Developer 4% Intensive Emulsion 1000ml.
What developer should you use with Koleston Perfect Me+?
The Koleston Perfect Me+ Developer range is available in five levels to suit different goals:
What developer should you use with Vero K-PAK?
To activate Vero K-PAK colours effectively, use the matching Vero K-PAK developer range:
- VeroGlaze No Lift 950ml for toning without lift
- Veroxide 10 Vol (3%)
- Veroxide 20 Vol (6%)
- Veroxide 30 Vol (9%)
- Veroxide 40 Vol (12%)
Crema colour developers
Crema Colour developers come in four options: 10 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, 20 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, 30 Vol Oxy Developer 65ml, and Oxy A Semi Developer 65ml. Pick the volume that matches your target result and follow the standard mixing ratio on the box.
Joico Lumishine liquid demi developer
For the Joico Lumishine Liquid Demi, there is one developer specifically designed for this formula: the Joico Lumishine 5 Vol (1.5%) Creme Developer, 946ml. Higher volumes would overpower this demi-permanent formula, compromising the result.
Igora Royal Developer and Mixing Ratio
The Igora Royal developer range is formulated to work alongside Igora Royal colour products. Follow the Igora Royal mixing ratio as specified in the product instructions to ensure consistent, predictable results. If you’re unsure which level to pair with a specific shade, our customer service team can help.
Choosing the Right Developer
Getting the developer right is half the job. Use the chart above as a starting point, match your volume to what you’re actually trying to achieve, and stick to the developer range designed for your colour brand. If you’re ever unsure which developer to use for hair dye or for permanent hair colour, reach out to our customer service team. We deal with these questions every day, and we’d rather you ask than guess.